You want the adjustment set just far enough in that the gun will fire

reliably across all six lobes, but not appreciably more than this.  Check the function of the single shot trigger at this point.

12. At this point it is time to remove the back plate/Crankfire unit as an assembly from the gun.  Make sure that it can be removed and replaced with out any interference between the back plate trigger and the main trigger bar inside the gun.  There is plenty of clearance on my TNW gun here, even with the rocker arm adjusted to put excess pre load on the back plate trigger.

However, on my gun it appears that the radius, for the interface between the main trigger bar and the back plate trigger, was probably generated on a belt grinder by hand.  So I have no idea how much dimensional latitude may be present in other guns.  I don't think it will be a problem, but please pay close attention here and let me know if you do have a problem.

13. Assuming all is well at this point, test firing the gun is in order.

There are two methods of operation for the "Deadman" crank handle.  You can engage the drive dogs by applying pressure against the spring-loaded handle to the "IN" position and then rotate the crank.  Or you can leave the handle in the "OUT" position (freewheeling) rotate it to the desired speed and then move it over to the "IN" position to engage the drive pin on the shaft and fire the gun in short bursts.  The single shot trigger is attached directly to the rocker arm weldment and will fire the gun any time it is depressed.  I have found the best position for the crank handle, when using the single shot trigger, is to let it lay towards the rear of the gun on top of my hand when holding the spade handle.  Also, I prefer using two fingers on the single shot trigger, may just be me, but it seems to afford better control than using just my index finger alone.  I haven't had the opportunity to try "bump firing" with the single shot trigger, but I think it might work pretty well this way, if one was inclined to do so.

14. If you want to reverse the crank handle from one side to the other, the procedure is as follows.  Remove the dust cover.  Looking at the cam, you will see a 1/8" roll pin in the drive slots.  Drive this pin completely out.  There is an E clip on the end of the drive shaft next to the housing.  Remove this clip.  Withdraw the shaft/crank assembly; the spring load on the rocker arm will push the cam down a bit, so some pressure on the adjusting screw end of the rocker arm is in order.  Remove the cam and reverse it so that the drive slots are on the same side you want the handle on.  While holding the cam against the spring loaded rocker arm to align the holes, slip the shaft/crank assembly back in.  Replace the E clip and the drive pin.

15. Clean and lubricate the Crankfire unit the same as your gun.  Use a little grease on the cam pins and the rocker roller.  Just make sure that everything in the unit can move as freely as possible, any drag or binding will serve to decrease the unit's performance.

16. SAFETY CONSIDERATIONS: The spring loaded "Deadman" crank provides only a small safety feature in that the crank is automatically disengaged from the cam when firing pressure is released.  Please do not attempt to defeat this feature.  A fixed crank hanging off a LIVE GUN is a matter of "when" not  "if" it will get bumped!  But, DO NOT rely on this feature to put the gun in a SAFE condition, it DOESN'T!  The single shot trigger is always HOT, and will fire the gun if it's loaded.  The only SAFE condition for the Browning guns is when the chamber is EMPTY; NO BELT in the gun and the top cover is OPEN!